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5 días
Naturaleza
Cultura
Cádiz oculta
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Paths to inspiration.
Some journeys are travelled on foot, while others can only be navigated by the soul. To walk in Cadiz is to retrace its roots: from the Roman Empire to the first Christian communities, each step reveals a cultural crossroads offering the traveller distinct paths through history and memory. Three interconnected routes of the Camino de Santiago originate in this province. They lead not only to Santiago de Compostela but also to a faith that took hold long before the medieval pilgrimages began. Travelling these thousand-year-old paths allows us to walk in the spiritual footprints left by early Christians. We’ll visit sites such as the Hermitage of the Santos Mártires in Medina Sidonia, the ruins of the ancient city of Carteia in San Roque, and the Stations of the Cross in Bornos — Spain’s oldest Way of the Cross and the origin of Holy Week as we know it today. This experience is a journey into the most ancient, intimate and transcendent realms; a path connecting the source with the heart of those who seek it.
Our expedition begins where the sea meets the stone and time whispers between city walls: Cadiz, a city with three thousand years of history, was the starting point of Vía Augusta, the longest Roman road in ancient Hispania. The same road that once connected Gades (as the city of Cadiz was then called) with Rome now forms the central route of the Camino de Santiago through the lands of Cadiz.
The earth below holds the memory of its history. You can visit the 17th-century Catacumbas del Beaterio hidden beneath the city streets for a unique experience where ritual and death come into conversation with faith. From there, our journey brings us to the New Cathedral. Built between the 18th and 19th centuries, the edifice combines Baroque grandeur with neoclassical elegance. Nearby, in the narrow streets of El Pópulo, the city's oldest neighbourhood, you’ll find Spain’s second-largest Roman Theatre. This speaks to the splendour of ancient imperial Gades.
Around midday, we’ll bid farewell to Cadiz’s Atlantic breeze and set off for Medina Sidonia, a stop on another one of the Camino trails in the province: the Ruta del Estrecho (Strait Way). Offering scenic views over the Janda countryside, Medina is a land of fields, borders and cultural blending that charms visitors with its traditional rustic cuisine. You’ll have the chance to try the best cured meats and traditional stews, as well as excellent game and meat dishes, at its restaurants and famous roadside ventas. In the afternoon, we’ll walk through the whitewashed streets to visit sites including the Arco de la Pastora, the Church of Santa María la Coronada, and the ancient Roman sewers. We’ll also see the Hermitage of the Santos Mártires, the oldest hermitage in Andalusia. Built on the site of an ancient Roman domus (house) during the Visigoth era in 630 AD, it is one of the earliest vestiges of the Christian faith in the province of Cadiz.
We’ll end the day by walking up to the castle to enjoy a spectacular sunset with views over the countryside and the Bay of Cadiz. After dinner in the town, we’ll stay at Hotel Medina Sidonia, an 18th-century palace that showcases the typical local architecture while incorporating remnants of the 10th-century city walls.

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From the country to the coast, places that speak without words.
After waking up in Medina and enjoying our breakfast with pan de telera, a regional bread, we’ll set out on our route again. Before we go, we’ll pick up a box of the town’s famous alfajores, a sweet Andalusian treat that dates back to medieval times. Then we’ll head towards Tarifa, our next stop on the Ruta del Estrecho. Along the way, we’ll make a brief stop to admire the breathtaking views from the ruins of the San José del Cuervo Monastery. This former Carmelite hermitage from 1717 stands in the middle of the Garganta del Cuervo (Raven’s Gorge), a spectacular spot in Alcornocales Natural Park. Nearing Vejer de la Frontera, we’ll stop at Santa Lucía Rural Hamlet, which has been declared a national monument due to its natural beauty. From there, we’ll take a lovely stroll along the Ruta de Molinos de Agua (Watermill Route), moving through a beautiful landscape full of lush local vegetation, old mills and natural waterfalls. We’ll even see the remains of an ancient Roman aqueduct.
When we’re ready to eat, we’ll make our way up to the village. Named one of Spain’s 100 most beautiful villages by National Geographic and declared a Historic-Artistic Site in 1976, it’s the perfect spot to relax in the cool shade of its historic walls and whitewashed houses. The delicious carne de retinto (Retinto beef) and lomo en manteca (pork loin in lard) are local must-tries. And of course, we can’t leave without picking up a tub of pork loin to take home. After lunch, we’ll leave Vejer behind, but not before paying a visit to the Virgen de la Oliva, the local patron saint. Widely revered across the region, her 17th-century sanctuary is a crucial stop to learn a bit more about the origins of the Christian faith in the province. Legend has it that this sanctuary was built on the ruins of a 7th-century Visigoth basilica, which in turn was built on the site of a former Roman villa. Inside, we’ll see a funeral monument with a pagan inscription that holds the skeletal remains and ashes of Saint Stephen, the first Christian martyr, as well as the martyred saints Servando and Germán from Cadiz, and Justa and Rufina from Seville.
In the afternoon, before reaching Tarifa, we’ll visit the Archaeological Site of Baelo Claudia on Bolonia beach. One of the best surviving examples of a Roman port city from Hispania’s Imperial era, it preserves the remains of cobbled streets, a basilica, the forum, temples, and even a theatre that could seat up to 2,000 people. The industrial area is also visible, including the remains of the historic fish-salting factory where garum was produced. This famous flavour enhancer was made with a brine of fish entrails (especially from red tuna, mackerel, and other oily fish) and left out in the sun — a very popular sauce in ancient Rome. From Baelo Claudia, we’ll enjoy stunning views of the beach, one of the last unspoilt beaches in southern Spain, along with the cove and a spectacular sand dune measuring over 30 metres high. Bolonia is an incredible place to enjoy the sunset before we reach our destination. Just 20 minutes away lies Tarifa, guardian of the wind and gateway between Africa and Europe. We’ll have just enough time to drop our bags at the hotel, have a shower, freshen up and enjoy the wide array of restaurants and nightlife.

The ancient soul of the Strait: colonies, castles and the Camino.
Third day on the road. Before we leave Tarifa behind, we’ll visit the Church of San Mateo, the town’s best-known place of worship. This late Gothic church dates from the 16th century. However, it underwent additions in later years, the most prominent being the elegant Baroque façade from the late 18th century. Commissioned by Fadrique Enríquez de Ribera, the first Marquis of Tarifa, this church may have been built on the ruins of an old mosque. Its design was inspired by the Seville Cathedral, a highly influential model at the time. The church is home to several notable artworks, including an image of its namesake by Andrés de Castillejos, who also crafted the original main altarpiece. We’ll also find an 18th-century carving of the Virgen del Sol, the patron saint of Tarifa’s fishermen, attributed to the Sevillian sculptor Benito de Hita y Castillo. Finally, we’ll see a silver ciborium containing the relics of Saint Hiscio (or Hesiquius), the patron saint of Tarifa and one of the Seven Apostolic Men — disciples of Saint James who were ordained as bishops by Saint Peter and Saint Paul and sent to evangelise Roman Hispania.
Following in the footsteps of these early Christians, we’ll head toward San Roque and the archaeological site of the ancient city of Carteia at Cortijo del Rocadillo. Along the way, we’ll stop in Algeciras around mid-morning to visit Plaza Alta, the beating heart of the city, famous for its striking regional decor and distinctive Triana-style tiles. Here we’ll find two key monuments: the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Palma and the charming Chapel of Europa, both in the Baroque style. These two buildings are among the oldest in the city. As it happens, the church is also the kilometre zero point that marks the beginning of the Ruta del Estrecho, the Camino de Santiago route from the Strait.
Just 15 minutes from Algeciras, a stone’s throw from Guadarranque beach in the municipality of San Roque, we’ll find the archaeological remains of the city of Carteia. We’ll arrive with just enough time to visit the site before it closes for the day. Admission is free, but reservations must be made in advance. Originally founded by the Carthaginians and significantly expanded during the Roman era, Carteia became the first Roman colony outside of Italy. Here, we can still see the remains of the ancient Punic wall, along with a temple, several Roman domus (houses), a fish-salting factory and various necropolises. We’ll also find the Torre del Rocadillo, a 16th-century coastal watchtower commissioned by Philip II, and a bunker from the Second World War — one of many that were built to protect the Cadiz coast from potential attacks. According to legend, this is where Saint Hiscio founded the episcopal see of Cadiz, marking the beginning of Christianity in the province.
Now it’s time to take a break and fuel up. We’ll have lunch in San Martín del Tesorillo, the region’s newest municipality. Only gaining its independent municipality status in 2018, San Martín del Tesorillo was originally an agricultural colony of Jimena de la Frontera. Today, it forms part of the first two sections of the Vía Serrana, the third of our local Camino de Santiago routes. The town is nestled in the Guadiaro Valley, right in the heart of Campo de Gibraltar. This pristine natural area lies between Alcornocales Natural Park, the mountainous Serranía de Ronda and the Mediterranean coast. Small and welcoming, the town will charm you with its friendly locals and simple yet delicious cuisine. Highlights include potaje de tagarninas (golden thistle stew), boquerones del huerto (battered green beans), salmorejo de carne (a local pork dish) and chicharrones (pork crackling). You simply can’t leave without picking up a jar of jam made with their famously delicious oranges.
Just a hop, skip and a jump away, the hamlet of Los Ángeles is our next stop on the Vía Serrana. This small settlement is located two kilometres from the old town in Jimena de la Frontera. We’ll stop here in the afternoon to visit the Santuario de la Reina de los Ángeles. This 15th-century Franciscan monastery dedicated to the town's patron saint was expanded at a later date and is known locally as ‘El Convento’ (the convent). Highlights include the sacristy, the peacefulness of its cloister, and the Baroque dressing room where the image of the Virgin is venerated. This medieval polychrome alabaster carving has legendary origins; it is considered one of the oldest images of the Virgin in the province. In Jimena de la Frontera, history, nature and rural life weave together in perfect harmony. This was once the site of ancient Oba, one of the most important Roman settlements and birthplace of Marco Antonio Póstumo, a Roman general and great-grandfather of the famous emperor Mark Antony.
We’ll stroll through the Moorish layout of the old town, enjoying the peaceful narrow streets lined with whitewashed houses. There’s no better way to end the day than walking up to the top of the Cerro de San Cristóbal and visiting its Castle-Fortress. Declared a National Monument in 1931, the site was built in the Moorish era, making use of ancient Roman stone ashlars. Walking along its walls, you can gaze out over a landscape stretching all the way to the Strait. Here, you’ll feel how time stands still.

The original Stations of the Cross.
Fourth day on the road. After a good night’s rest, it’s time to bid Jimena de la Frontera farewell and leave the Campo de Gibraltar behind as we head toward Bornos. The winds of the Campo de Gibraltar give way to the tranquillity of the Pueblos Blancos (white villages). Just where the Alcornocales Natural Park meets the Sierra de Grazalema, we’ll find Ubrique. Its Roman origins are visible in the remains of an ancient road leading to Benaocaz and in the Ocuri Archaeological Site featuring a type of columbarium rarely seen anywhere on the peninsula.
Against the backdrop of the mountains, the history-filled white streets invite us to discover the artisanal craft that has made the town world-famous: leatherwork. We’ll take a moment to visit some of the many artisanal workshops in the old town, and perhaps pick up some typical local crafts and products along the way. After visiting picturesque spots like the Plaza de la Verdura and notable monuments such as the 17th-century Convento de Capuchinos and the 18th-century Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de la O, we’ll head up to one of eight viewpoints to enjoy beautiful vistas over the town and mountains, in deep connection with nature.
Then, we’ll leave Ubrique behind and continue on toward El Bosque. Surrounded by mountains and pine trees, nature invites us to stop for a bite to eat. Typical mountain dishes to enjoy include rabo de toro (bull tail stew), solomillo de venado (venison), and the famous local trucha (trout), along with a good wine from the area. And don't forget queso payoyo, a delicious cheese you’ve got to try while you’re here or buy to take home.
After lunch, we’ll head off toward Bornos, a hidden gem on the shores of a lake between the mountains and the countryside. Here, we can still see the legacy of the Roman culture in the remains of the Carissa Aurelia Archaeological Site a few kilometres from the town centre. Exploring the town, we’ll see a variety of palatial homes and stately buildings, signs of a prosperous past. This is why some authors consider Bornos to be the birthplace of the Renaissance in Lower Andalusia. We’ve got until 7 p.m. to visit the Castillo-Palacio de los Ribera, Bornos’s Renaissance masterpiece. This Plateresque-style castle-palace was built on top of an earlier Moorish construction; the remains of the original walls and the Torre del Homenaje tower are still visible. The beautiful gardens inside have been recognised as a Historic Garden of Cultural Interest. They were designed by Italian gardener Salvador Sepadano, who was inspired by Bramante’s famous Belvedere Gardens in the Vatican. At one end of the gardens, we’ll find the only Pompeian-style loggia in Andalusia.
In Bornos lies the origin of one of Spain’s most deeply rooted traditions, directly linked to the celebrations of Holy Week: the recitation of the 14 Stations of the Cross, or Vía-Crucis as it’s known in Latin. Its history dates back to 1518, when Don Fadrique Enríquez de Ribera, Marquis of Tarifa (yes, the same one who commissioned the Church of San Mateo) began a pilgrimage from Bornos to the Holy Land, travelling through several European countries. Upon reaching Jerusalem, he counted the steps Jesus took carrying the cross from Pontius Pilate’s Palace to Mount Calvary. When he returned to Bornos, he calculated the same distance from the door of the Monastery of Santa María del Rosario to a point outside of town, where he had a small shrine with a cross built. He named it 'Cruz de la Esperilla’. In the 17th century, the Franciscans created their own Stations of the Cross modelled on this one. We can still see some of the crosses that marked each station. This can be seen as the origin of Holy Week as we know it today, where the pasos (processional floats) represent those stations with Passion scenes carried on the shoulders of the bearers.
This brings us to the last night of our journey. There’s nothing better than a stroll along the lake’s shore to end the day. Surrounded by nature, we’ll enjoy the peace and tranquillity of a village silently guarding the echo of a legacy that deserves to be rediscovered.

The Taste of Legacy.
Bornos is the perfect starting point for the last leg of our journey. To round out this experience, there’s nothing better than discovering the rich history and culture of Jerez de la Frontera. It just so happens that Jerez is one of the stops on the Camino route called Vía Augusta. Before reaching our destination, we must make an obligatory stop at the 15th century Carthusian Monastery of Santa María de la Defensión (pre-booking required), the province’s most important religious monument. Declared a National Historic-Artistic Monument in 1856, it brings together the best of various artistic and architectural styles, including Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque. Stepping through the grand Renaissance portico, we’ll see that the different areas of the monastery, especially the Church, courtyards and cloisters, were clearly intended for quiet reflection and contemplation. This was also the birthplace of the Carthusian horse, a breed regarded today as an Andalusian symbol of elegance and nobility. The monks bred these horses with care and devotion, and their legacy lives on in the stables and performances of the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art.
As we arrive in Jerez de la Frontera, land of Sherry and flamenco, history and art intertwine. The old town invites us to wander along its streets, fragrant with the scent of Sherry wineries. We’ll come across monuments like the Cathedral and impressive Gothic churches adorned with Baroque details, linked to the Christian Reconquest. Don’t miss the gardens of the Alcázar, where you can still see the legacy of Moorish Spain.
Before too long, it will be time for a refreshment. The centuries-old Sherry wineries and tabancos (traditional bars) open their doors. Here, as the Sherry quietly ages, we’ll discover the heart and soul of Jerez. Each guided tasting is a sensory journey: from the driest Fino to the most complex Oloroso, each glass tells a tale of land, time and wisdom. The food is an experience in itself, with tapas that blend tradition and simplicity. Jerez is famous for its chicharrones (pork crackling), stews such as menudo and berza jerezana, and typical dishes like ajo caliente (made with garlic, tomatoes, red peppers and bread), riñones al jerez (kidneys) and a delicious carne mechada (slow-cooked meat). And of course, we can't forget dessert! Be sure to try carmelas, pocitos, and Jerez's quintessential sweet treat, tocino de cielo. This heavenly dessert was originally made in convents with the surplus egg yolks discarded by Sherry makers during the clarification process.
With our time in Jerez de la Frontera drawing to a close, we come to the end of an experience that goes beyond the physical places we've visited. Our journey has taken us through ancient ruins and vibrant villages, between the sacred and the everyday. We’ve followed in the footsteps of a faith that emerged before the official ways of the Camino, a faith that can still be felt in every stone, in every gesture, in every step. The province of Cadiz is a crossroads of civilizations and beliefs revealed along the quiet roads that not only lead us to Santiago de Compostela but also reconnect us with what is essential, spiritual, and deeply human.